Women of the Wilderness

Mrs Hoornbrook

First white woman to enter South Canterbury in February 1854.
Her husband, William Hornbrook, managed his brother Alfred’s Arowhenua Station.
They brought two daughters, one of whom was Caroline.
In 1854, a son, William Richard (known as Richards Hornbrook), was born—the first white child in South Canterbury.
Mrs. Hornbrook mentioned in a letter that they left many old relics behind when leaving Arowhenua Station, and she did not know what happened to them.

J B Hamilton, Letters Found in Timaru Give Account Of Pioneering Life in South Canterbury (06 April 1963). Aoraki Heritage Collection, accessed 05/03/2025, https://aorakiheritage.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/5244

Mount Cook Station

- William Vance, Women of the Wilderness: Pioneer of Mt Cook Station (Jun 1949). Aoraki Heritage Collection, accessed 05/03/2025, https://aorakiheritage.recollect.co.nz/nodes/view/5037

Mrs. Burnett ensured guests' comfort and even prepared special food for Green’s expedition, including butter wrapped in a cabbage leaf.

In appreciation, Von Haast regularly sent illustrated magazines to the Burnetts and referred to them as “the good people of the wilderness.”
William Rolleston also sent school books for the Burnett children.
Wagon Wheels & Supply Routes
- Supplies reached Mount Cook Station via Big Hill, and wool was transported out the same way.
- Everyone helped haul the wool-wagon up the steep four-mile incline.
- 30 bullocks pulled the wagon, urged on by sweating, swearing bullock drivers.
- The track from the summit wound 15 miles through creeks and hummocks to the Tekapo road.
- Grass-covered wagon ruts and rough cuttings dug at hairpin bends still remain.
- The wagon carried essential supplies like nails, clothes, barbed wire, saddlery, and treats such as lollies.
- From the summit, one could see the Southern Alps, including Sefton, Cook, Tasman, Silverhorn, and Haidinger.
- Sir Julius Von Haast described the panorama as "one of the finest in our Alps."
- A Lonely Cairn – Tribute to Catherine Mackay Burnett: Erected To the Memory of Catherine Mackay, who helped her husband Andrew Burnett
  To subdue this mountain country, Leased from the Crown, May 1864, And in the Wilderness to make a home. A Brave Woman, A Great-hearted Pioneer, The Best of Mothers.

Before the Pioneers & Settlers Come

The sheep-stealing raids of James Mackenzie played a dramatic role in NZ's pastoral development.
Mackenzie repeatedly stole sheep from The Levels and sold them in Southland, over 200 miles away.
The pass he used, known to Māori, was eventually discovered when two Māori and The Levels station manager captured him.
Mackenzie’s discovery led to the opening of prime sheep-grazing land.

Pioneering Women

Mrs. Hornibrook was a courageous pioneer woman:
- Rescued a traveler from drowning just three days after giving birth.
- Lived ten miles from The Levels, helping break isolation for the Rhodes family.
The Rhodes family transitioned from a totara slab homestead to a new house, planting trees brought from Purau, including:
- Apple, plum, cherry, walnut, peach, mulberry, filbert, and pomegranate trees.
- Gum trees and yew trees, which now form an archway over a "Cloth of Gold" rose tree planted by Mrs. Rhodes.

The Death of George Rhodes

After working in water while dipping sheep at Purau Station, George Rhodes caught a chill and became seriously ill.
His death was marked by the tolling of the church bell.
Māori mourned him deeply, saying: "Tioti was a good man; he was like our own father."

1843: George Rhodes arrived from England to manage a cattle station and operated a whaling station.
1851: George and Robert Rhodes, with some shepherds, set out to establish their Banks Peninsula runs, crossing the Rakaia River.
1851: They wrote to the Colonial Secretary, announcing they had taken possession of a run near Timaru, between the Rivers Opihi and Waihi.
Homestead: Built a cob house in South Canterbury, the only dwelling between the Waitaki River and Lake Ellesmere, becoming a central station.
Alfred Hornbrook: In 1853, Alfred Hornbrook arrived in Timaru to manage a station at Horauana, inland by the hills.
1854: Alfred Cox bought two licences for runs, shipping sheep and cattle to Lyttelton, then camping at Mount Four Peaks.
1854: Studholme arrived at Te Waimate Station, seeking an agreement with Chief Uru Uru, marking the establishment of a run from the sea to the Hook.
Otain Station: Established by Annie Collier and others, stretching from the Hack to the Otaio rivers and from the sea to Hakeforamea Valley.
Pareora Station: Developed by Warris and Innes, running from the Hunter Hills to the Pareora and Otaio rivers.
Raincliff Station: Located between the Onihi and Opua rivers, spanning 30,000 acres.
Charles G. Tripp: In 1855, Tripp moved to the Mackenzie country, discovering new areas for sheep and cattle runs, including the shores of Lake Pukaki and Lake Tekapo.
Mt. Peel Station: Tripp and his friend started Mt. Peel station, seen from Christchurch by their fires.
Mesopotamia Station: Samuel Butler consolidated holdings into this station, becoming a notable literary figure while living there.
Mackenzie Country: In 1864, Andrew Burnett and others founded stations in the Mackenzie Plains.
Mount Cook: In a spur of the moment decision, McRae named a station "Mount Cook" after applying for it in Christchurch.

The Growth of the Young Town

Mrs. Rhodes found managing The Levels station too difficult and agreed to sell it.
She and her five children moved to Linwood House, near George Street.
Early township struggles included:
- Scarce water supply – a crisis when a dog drowned in one of the two wells.
- Frequent shipwrecks, with the signal bell ringing for the rocket brigade.
- A devastating fire that destroyed half the town in an afternoon.
The town expanded rapidly, replacing the Rhodes family's home with municipal offices, the Post Office, and a fire station.

Life at Beverley

After marrying Arthur Perry, Mrs. Rhodes moved to "Beverley," a grand home overlooking Caroline Bay.
Beverley had historic ties:
- The whaling ship Caroline had brought supplies to Sam Williams there half a century earlier.
Mrs. Rhodes planted a Wellingtonia tree grown from a seed belonging to her first husband.
- The tree is now enormous and visible from the sea.
Hoani Kahu, a respected Māori chieftain, frequently visited Beverley in his later years.
- The white-bearded chieftain Hoani Kahu was a frequent visitor.
- He would pick up one of the Rhodes children and joke, “Nice fat piccaninny—good to eat.”
- The children, terrified, would flee, fearing he might take them away in his large bag to a Māori oven.

Wildlife and Conservation Efforts
- When Mrs. Rhodes first arrived in South Canterbury, the area was full of wild pigs, dogs, paradise ducks, pukaki, kakas, and wekas.
- As swamps were drained, many wild animals and birds disappeared, some nearly to extinction.
- She worked to counter this by importing English birds.
- Birds such as goldfinches, linnets, redpolls, hedgesparrows, skylarks, pheasants, yellowhammers, and starlings were introduced before the end of 1876.
Memories of The Levels
- She remained deeply attached to The Levels station.
- Frequently visited to check on the trees she had planted years before.
- Recalled the early days:
  - The homestead’s small steps and sleeping platform for a maid.
  - Her baby was born in that home.
  - Māori visitors would often sit outside in the morning, surprising her as she emerged from her bedroom.
Legacy and Change
- Mrs. Rhodes, the first white woman to cross the Canterbury Plains, saw massive transformation:
  - Grain and wool stores replaced her beachside cob cottage.
  - Railway sidings replaced areas where she once gathered stones.
  - A modern harbor stretched into the sea where whaling boats had once anchored.
  - Steel bridges made river crossings safer.
  - Wheatfields turned the region into “the granary of New Zealand.”
  - London buses advertised “prime Canterbury Lamb” as the world’s best.
- She witnessed Canterbury evolve from a wilderness into a prosperous settlement.
Final Days
- In January 1890, one of her children went to wake her—only to find she had passed away.
- She had joined “the lone gray company, before the pioneers.”

Before the Pioneers – Part One

New Zealand before colonization:
- Located 1,200 miles east of Sydney.
- No established law.
- Trade in flax, hemp, ship’s spars, whale blubber, and rum.
William Rhodes' Journey:
- Sent by Sydney firm Cooper and Levy on a whaling cruise.
- Arrived at Port Cooper on the barque Australian.
- Observed Canterbury Plains: mostly swampland and water.
Rhodes’ Return and Land Acquisitions:
- Sold property in Australia to establish a business in Wellington.
- Acquired a cattle station in Akaroa.
- Erected a British flag at Akaroa to preempt French colonization.
George Rhodes and Early Settlements:
- Managed Akaroa and Purau stations.
- Witnessed the arrival of the first Canterbury settlers.
Elizabeth Wood's Journey:
- Arrived with the early settlers.
- Married George Rhodes.
- First white woman to cross the Canterbury Plains.
First Homestead at The Levels:
- Located near present-day George Street, Timaru.
- Covered land from Opihi to Pareora Rivers, from the sea to the mountains.
- Began as a cob room and thatched shelter.
- Verandah paved with stones from the beach.
The Move to The Levels:
- Built a two-roomed totara slab hut, thatched with snowgrass.
- Still standing today, nearly 100 years old.

Shopping Trips to Christchurch:

Communication by land was difficult, so supplies were brought to the station by Māori in boats.
Travel across the plains was hazardous with no tracks and dangerous rivers.
On one shopping trip, they were stranded for three weeks by the flooded Rakaia River, waiting for the waters to recede.
Without cooking utensils, they used an old iron pot (previously used for arsenic) for cooking and bathing their baby.
Rations were limited to flour, sugar, and tea until Mrs. Rhodes' husband captured a sheep.

Crossing the Rangitata River

Visits between Stations:
- Visits between Mt. Peel and Shepherd’s Bush stations were frequent.
- The Rangitata River was dangerous to ford when above normal levels.
Mrs. Jollie’s Fear of Rivers:
- Mrs. Jollie, a neighbour, was terrified of rivers.
- On one occasion, it took until 11 a.m. to get Mrs. Jollie over the Rakaia River.
- Strong nor-west winds and blowing sand made visibility extremely poor during crossings.
Driving Difficulties:
- Driving across the plains involved navigating over boulders of various sizes.
- The road included soft-bottomed gullies and dangerous poles at riverbanks.
- A mail coach suffered damage due to a mishap with the springs.
Impromptu Help:
- A nearby four-bullock dray helped to transport Mrs. Harper and belongings.
- Mrs. Harper showed great resilience and appeared youthful for her age.
Mrs. Tripp’s River Incident:
- The Tripps tried to cross the Rangitata River by boat to visit the Moorhouses.
- The boat was swept away after the rowers lost control in the rapids.
- The boat was carried down three rapids, traveling four miles in 20 minutes.
Efforts to Rescue Mrs. Tripp:
- Jack Rae and Dr. Moorhouse saw the boat and rushed to help, but the river was too deep and fast.
- Mrs. Tripp managed to use the remaining oar and reach an island.
- She climbed a tree for safety and spent four hours on the island, drying her clothes.
- The Misses Moorhouse on the opposite bank provided her with moral support.
Dr. Moorhouse’s Rescue Attempt:
- Dr. Moorhouse and his team of bullocks eventually retrieved a boat and rowed across to rescue Mrs. Tripp.
- They had difficulty navigating the swift river but succeeded in reaching her.
Alternative Rescue Plan:
- If the rescue had failed, Black Andy had volunteered to swim across and carry Mrs. Tripp on his back, which she was relieved didn’t happen.
Mrs. Tripp’s Lasting Fear of Rivers:
- Mrs. Tripp developed a lasting dislike of rivers after this traumatic experience.
- Common Shearing-Shed Accidents:
  - Every shearing shed had similar accidents.
  - One story mentions Tripp standing on the bank, waving and saying goodbye to his wife, Ellen, fearing the worst.
- Shearing-Shed Tradition:
  - Shearers would often push a shorn sheep through the porthole with the words, "Ellen, my dear."
- Wild Pigs Threaten the Homestead:
  - Wild pigs from the nearby bush raided the homestead garden.
  - Mrs. Tripp was afraid to walk even short distances from the homestead due to the pigs.
- Parson Andrew and the Pig Chase:
  - During a Sunday service in a tent, Parson Andrew stopped his sermon to shout, “There goes a pig.”
  - The congregation, led by the parson, rushed to chase the pig.
Orari Gorge
- Tripp and Acland Partnership:
  - In 1862, Tripp and Acland dissolved their partnership, and Tripp took over Orari Gorge station.
  - After a visit to England, the Tripp family moved to live at Orari Gorge.
- Snowstorm and Birth of Third Daughter:
  - During the worst part of the 1867 snowstorm, Mrs. Tripp’s third daughter was born.
  - In February, the family was flooded out when the creek's water rose to the window of the children’s room.
- Sir Thomas and Lady Tancred:
  - Sir Thomas and Lady Tancred moved to Woodbury and later stayed with the Tripps for five months.
  - Sir Thomas, short-sighted, mistook a sunflower for an intruder and fired his gun at it.
- Open Hospitality at Orari Gorge:
  - Orari Gorge homestead was known for its hospitality.
  - As many as 19 people slept in one room, and the visitors' book contains over 10,000 names.
  - Invitations often included a note: "Bring your own blankets."
- Preserved Memorabilia:
  - The homestead preserved early furniture, paintings, china, and a piano from the early days.
  - The sofa in the hall was the bed Mrs. Tripp slept in when she arrived in New Zealand.
- Mrs. Tripp’s Gardening Passion:
  - Despite caring for eight children, Mrs. Tripp spent spare time in the garden.
  - Her lovely flowers are still present at the homestead.
  - Even as an elderly woman, she continued gardening while being taken around in a wheeled chair.
- Morning Routine:
  - Every morning, Mrs. Tripp would look out of her window and say, “Ah, today will be sunny. Let’s go out and plant primroses down Laburnum Walk.”